The board already supports a touch screen, but the GPIO is all used for video and audio and can't be used for anything else.USB is accessible, but it'...
I think some of the custom RetroPie images have a different partition setup. I try to keep things as stock as possible though, so I can just forward p...
This is just a misunderstanding with how the stock RetroPie image works. The stock image has two partitions. The first is the boot partition and doesn...
@square_enix PS2 will not run on the CM4, and I expect the same for GC. From what I'm seeing PS2 will run on the Pi5, and I hope the CM5 handles it we...
@mad That's interesting. What caused you to try that? I want to research why it fixed your issue.
The same answer applies here as the other question you asked
I'm not making use of the PCIe at all, so yeah there are some possibilities. There are some space constraints, but electrically there are many things ...
If you set a custom username or password in Raspberry Pi Imager, then it tends to break RetroPie
A lot of that stuff is most likely possible. The CM4 carrier can be modified to add most of those features, assuming the CM5 (whenever it is released)...
I'd assume the EMMC is going to be faster than the SD card version, but I haven't tested that myself so definitely verify it. As far as size, any of t...
@whitebeard No worries, I moved it to a more appropriate section. I'd love to see a metal PSP case. I'm fairly good with CAD myself, but I just don'...
I don't understand exactly what you're asking. Are you trying to transfer game roms to it?
@ron-plank The Display button adjusts the brightness. Can you post an image showing the ghosting in a new topic?
@ron-plank Its possible you shorted something if you were installing screws while it was booting for the first time. If it happened while it was doing...
It is possible, but I haven't really made it a focus because the case would need modification. Its also a pain to switch between using the internal di...
Hey, just a follow-up. The automod banned you for some reason. I'm not sure exactly what triggered it. Anyway, I just saw the edit you made to the o...
I think the changes you need are in retroarch.cfg. I don't use save states, so that's something I never checked. Retroarch is just using the defaults,...
@ummm Do you have a cheap way to send the whole thing to me? I'm baffled by what is going on, and it might help if I can get my hands on it.
@ummm The solder work looks excellent, so I doubt you have any issues there. I see the small amount of damage on the LCD connector. Did this happen ...
@ummm also, I'm doing a little forum housekeeping and I moved this to a different forum category. Just letting you know so you're able to find it
@ummm The solder joints between the header and the Pi Zero, if possible. Maybe one showing the clearance between the PSPi board and the LCD bracket. I...
@ummm This is making me wonder whether you have something shorting out the board. When you plug in the charger, you should always see a green or orang...
@ummm Alrighty here are the first two things to check. The first image shows the bottom of the board and the battery connector. Check the voltage be...
@ummm Alright I'll put some images together showing the areas to check with the voltmeter, and I'll post them here.
@ummm Yes. Unplug and replug at both the PSPi and the small control board.
@ummm I rarely see it go bad, unless it was removed and reinstalled dozens of times. I get replacements from Aliexpress when I need them for testing, ...
@ummm ok it's probably that FPC cable then
Gotcha. I test each of these with a Raspberry Pi before shipping, so it's probably something minor. My guess is either the battery is in protection mo...
Do you get any lights at all when you try powering it on?
Yes, I certainly neglected the site. I'm back, if you still want any of those questions answered @gabe
Hey, I'm prototyping a new LCD topper design (same shape, but easier to contract the assembly) that I will mass-produce. I expect the process to tak...
There won't be a 2000 or 3000 version. Too many issues with the internal layout.
@p7 are you still needing support? @tpruegner That's a strange combination of problems. As far as powering off and not working without being plugged i...
I never tried adapting the Duo connector to MicroSD and interfacing with the Pi. It seemed that they were electrically different, so I never attempted...
Yes, very busy. I'm working through support on the final massive shipment, then I'll finally be back to tinkering.
1. Is there anywhere where I can either purchase or get the files for the 24pin breakout board used in version 2.1? I don't sell the boards anymore, b...
@nexilla Do you have a 12v power supply to use for testing, and do you have a voltmeter? @chronic8000 it looks like IC7 needs to be bypassed
Possible? Absolutely. I lean in the direction of the Pi 3 A+ though, since it integrates many of the circuits like power regulation and WiFi. I know t...
Hey, I'm working through all these posts that came in while I was working on kits. That link has the USB and headphone boards.
It's always the solder joints. I'm glad you got it working.
The product page lists everything included and needed. Aftermarket shells are generally cheap Chinese knockoffs, and I haven't found one I really like...
When you tested with the 2A power source, was that after soldering to the board? If not, are you able to try powering it straight from the Pi's USB po...
I recommend checking the FPC cable that runs to the Pi's CSI connector. It handles the connection to the joystick, battery indicator, and buttons. It'...
Ok so you disassembled it also? If so, then check the FPC cable leading the the Pi's CSI connector. It handles all the input for buttons, joystick, an...
That all seems like it could be software issues. Have you tried the premade image yet?
Thanks for posting this
It has been resolved. I found the batch of cables that came in with a couple switched colors. Only a couple people got the ones with switched colors, ...
It's possible that the voltage is still lower than what's needed. The input inductor may be the issue. Can you take a voltage measurement on both side...
I'll have a batch of them ready next week
The wire order should match the order on the board
To fix, I recommend just soldering the green wire to the blue labeled hole, and vice versa. I guess I'll need to make a post about this. I definitely ...
That's exactly the problem. I just went through my box of 8-pin cables and a couple others have the green and blue wires swapped.
Awesome. Thanks for posting the response. I was googling it myself because I couldn't remember.
I saw the response, but my shop orders get priority over free support. I've got some time now. You say you remove the SS14 diode, and from the picture...
That's a new one. The IC (looks like it says G8BAB) appears to be doing the DC-DC work. Do you have a 12v power source and a voltmeter? A couple areas...
That LCD has an entirely different pinout, so it won't work with the 40-pin DPI topper. I do have some Topper PCBs on the way for 54-pin LCDs, and I p...
Yep, 18 and 19. You'll have to tweak the overlay. I'm pretty sure this is it: dtoverlay=pwm-2chan,pin=18,func=2,pin2=19,func2=2
The next batch of headphone boards will arrive in a few days, and I'll add some pics to the v4 assembly guide when they get here. Overall though it's ...
Unfortunately DPI steals one of the I2S necessary pins, so you won't be able to use it. I'm not aware of any method to relocate the I2S pins. The only...
Those look great. Thanks for posting.
Nope. Same deal as the microSD. Everything is just routed straight from the Pi. There are some very small hubs that could be used. You could remove th...
All three microSD slots share the same signal. There is some voodoo that can create one from GPIO pins, but the LCD is using all those.
The headphone board has no effect on performance of the Pi. It only taps into the audio that was already outputting into the speakers. Is it possible ...
If you leave GP2 disconnected, then the circuit will power off automatically. It must be pulled to 3.3v. The alternative is to remove t6 if you don't ...
If you're asking about the PSPi headphone board, instructions will be provided once it's ready.
It depends on the image. If it's based off a recent version of RetroPie, then it should work fine. You'd just need to copy over all the config files a...
Almost all of them work with it, so it's really just going to be a matter of opinion which one is best. The one I include in the setup script makes so...
Just copy this and you're good.
Also, if you exit to the command line and type jstest /dev/input/js0 you can test the joystick directly.
You already ruled out the most likely cause by putting the microSD card directly into the Pi. Are there any signs of life when you turn it on? I'm as...
That's exactly it. The wires in the rubber piece make the connection.
It's probably something very minor causing the issue. It just needs to be hunted down. You're in the US, right? Send the whole thing to me First Clas...
Sounds like a corrupt or poorly-connected SD card. Try removing it and reinstalling it a couple times, in case it's the contacts misbehaving. It could...
You're blowing up my forum a bit, so I'm combining all your questions into one post. Cr*p, got a broken PSP 1004 for marktplaats.nl... Now I want to o...
The kits are backordered by about a month. I'm shipping kits from the end of February right now. I ship basically everywhere. If you add the kits to y...
It is functional. The joystick connects to the board the same way it connected to the original PSP board, using gold-plated pads and the rubber contac...
It's 50/50 on whether you'll ahve to do more, just depends on the amp rating on the input inductor. Check this out You want to solder the VIN and OUT...
Looks like you have the XL1509 buck converter. It drops voltage to 5v instead of 3.3v. Are you able to remove that IC entirely? Also, it looks like yo...
It appears to be a 3.3v buck converter, and the large voltage drop across the diode (appears to be labeled M1) is probably keeping it from working (it...
They are electrically compatible, but there's no way they will fit into the battery compartment.
It's actually better that it doesn't work. That way you're not killing a good PSP. As long as the PSP doesn't have any serious physical or liquid dama...
Yeah power and USB adapters
snap a picture of the bottom and I'll see what I can do to help
The kit includes the board, LCD, and speaker wire. It doesn't include the battery or the adapters, because some people will already have those things ...
It will not work with a 3000 series. 1000 series only.
I wouldn't say near future. V4 orders are coming in faster than I can make the boards, and I won't have time to get back to PCB design for a couple mo...
1. Is the turnigy battery the max physical size for the psp build? No. There is some extra space. The Turnigy one is just the closest I've found so fa...
Correct. The 300k pulldown can't overcome the 40k pullup from the GPIO pin. As soon as the GPIO switches to pulldown or nopull, the 300k pulls the gat...
The OS is watching the pin attached to GP1, so pressing the button issues the shutdown command. After shutdown completes, GP2 is pulled low by the OS....
I haven't looked into the Vita at all since last year. Might do it at some point. I sold a couple in the past, and will probably sell at least one v4 ...
Do you have another Pi Zero that you can test the SD card in? If not, I'm willing to help troubleshoot this for you if you want to send everything to ...
It sounds like an issue with the Raspberry Pi. Are you confident you copied the image (assuming RetroPie) to the SD card properly?
The small boards for controls, ribbon cables, LCD bracket, and a few other misc parts. I recommend hunting down a broken one for the internal parts.
Sounds like you might have the joystick wired up incorrectly or incompletely. The joystick is connected to the D-pad controls, so it will cause the bu...
Hmm..that's a weird one. Were you able to complete the button configuration using the joystick, for all four directions? If you were, it sounds like a...
Yes, it is designed to work down to about 2.5v.
Same orientation. That's the right side of the GPIO header, closest to the battery compartment.
Nope, not that one. This is the connector rotated 180 degrees from the position in your pic
Exactly. My board.
The left arrow and top-right arrow are always connected together, but the middle one shouldn't be. Any chance you can get a pic of the pins on the FPC...