It's implemented now.

No, it's not an emergency or anything. Start and select are used to exit games, so it's good that you're using L and R in place of them. Those are the...

Removing the wires should be enough. If you remove them and it still isn't working, then feel free to post some pics and I can look for something obvi...

Ok that narrows it down to an issue with the Pi itself or an issue with the OS. Probably not the OS, since you've transferred it the typical way. Can ...

They still output 3.7v (really its 3.0v to 4.2v depending on how charged it is). There's a group of components in the middle of the board that step th...

If you aren't getting 3.3v at the yellow pin, you can connect a wire between the yellow pin and the orange pin to keep the board powered on long enoug...

Ok that rules out the easy things. If you can get that meter then there are some things to test. When you hit the power switch you should be getting ...

Nope, that component won't cause that to happen. That's just a potentiometer that let you set the warning voltage for the low-battery LED. The only t...

The pic isn't showing up.

Really nice work on that vent. Thanks for posting

Keeping it somewhat on the back burner until I'm caught up on v3 backorders. Integrating the LCD controller will definitely be a huge improvement. Bet...

I'm trying to keep this thread clean. This should have gone into the support thread. Anyway, once you get it working please edit your post and show wh...

The RED and GRN pads connect to GND when they are going to be lit. To get an LED to light, the cathode of the LED would get connected to the RED or GR...

For most of these projects I use 24 or 26 gage for power and 28 or 30 for data/signal.

Which charge module is it?

It's because volume control is not plug and play. Start, select, vol+, and vol- are routed to GPIO pins and can be configured to do anything you like....

Ok that's the problem. Get rid of the teal wires entirely. This should work: Attach the L+ to the center pin of the RCA cable and attach ground to the...

When you say TV, does that mean you're wiring them to the RCA audio inputs on the TV?

Posted by: Natron 5.) This is where my problem happens. If I don't have the ground pin on either side occupied, I get video. If I put the ground wir...

If you're using it for the Version 3, then I recommend leaded solder for the Pi Zero connection. I haven't purchased any in a long time, so I can't re...

Everything looks right with the wiring. Do you get an activity light on the Pi Zero after powering it on? There is an LED on it that blinks as it load...

That rules out damage to the built-in buck converter. So that narrows it down somewhat. Can you post or email some images of your wiring? I want to se...

Now that you've got power going in, check the spot I colored orange before and let me know what voltage you're getting.

The best option would be to scrape away some of the blue color from the board just below the LCD pad. You can see the outline of the trace where it ru...

If you're only getting 1v at the red and black, then something else is going on that has to be fixed first. Those are your power input points. They ge...

Are you getting 5v at the black/red points?

This soldering station has done a great job for me Lead-free solder that works well. It's not as good as leaded, but there's less toxicity. Everythi...

LCD+ on the connection that should be empty could be bad. That's putting 5v directly to the 3.3v chip. Put 5v to the black and red connections, and ...

The pad being lifted off the board shouldn't be an issue. If the connection is broken, then there are multiple other areas that the LCD power can conn...

You could try re-running the button configuration first. It's possible that a button was hit at the wrong time. Try these buttons during the config. ...

I'll still probably update it with the recommendation that people test with the microSD inserted directly into the Pi before soldering the adapter up....

Are all the controls working when you're in the game list, before you actually load a game? If everything worked during the button configuration and t...

I see you posted another question about the controls after posting this. Were you able to resolve the black screen issue? If so, I'm just curious what...

It will, but the diode M7 will cause so much voltage drop that the LCD will either flicker or not work at all. That chip needs over 4.75v to work, and...

You did exactly right by wiring to the converter. The first few that went out (including your's) were built slightly differently. I've moved to a new ...

You will definitely fry the board if you do that.

Oh no we aren't there yet. That will be awful. Disconnect the 9 wires that lead to the SD adapter. Unplug the USB connector USB data connector if it's...

So when you hit the switch you get no change on pin 8? You should be getting at least a momentary jump in voltage. Was this Pi Zero W tested with HDM...

Lol. Just a tad bit. But hey, no spam is getting through. I made some more adjustments, so that might be the last time links get removed. I tend to ag...

Ok I'll test the 4.2 image to make sure that's not the problem. Still try plugging the microSD directly in to rule that out.

Ok. I'm sure it's something simple. So here's what's going on with the shutoff to help with the troubleshooting. The shutoff feature works off of GPIO...

Did you copy the config.txt file and overwrite the one that was on the SD card?

Check this out What you're dealing with is the shutdown feature that kills power if there is no OS running. Are you using the Zero W?

It would work the same way. The retrogame software adafruit made emulateas keyboard presses when you hit a button, and it can be modified to press any...

Excellent. The first place to check would be where the Pi connects to my board, since you're soldering blind. Take the SD card out of the Pi and use a...

If you don't have an OS loaded on the SD card, then it will do that. If you have an OS on the SD card and it's attached to the Pi using a microSD adap...

Posted by: Justencase6 Thank you Othermod for all the work you have done on here,you have inspired me to build some other projects,I will be ordering...

I'll have the joystick added to the diagram this evening.

Posted by: shmit i was reading thru the forum and read that the board will come assembled with components, my question is if its possible to purchase...

If you get rid of the diode labeled M7 and connect a jumper in it's place the LCD should work. If it doesn't, then the inductor labeled 101 next to di...

Ok hang tight. I'm going to research a couple things and see whether there are is any way to make your's work without a buck converter.

Posted by: st0n3y19 I have the same controller board that dlarts has posted here: Is there a buck converter breakout board that anyone knows of t...

Can you edit and re-add the links? I'm adding spam filtering software and it's apparently turned up too high.

Posted by: Justencase6 I have looked all over the forum and the guide's and can't find in your 2.1 project how to wire in the joystick board,can you...

Excellent. How's the image quality? I'm also curious how much amperage it draws. I've ordered one and can get that information once it arrives if you ...

That's promising. There is a good chance that this will work without any modification. I believe the IC is a variant of the MP2307, so as long as it's...

Posted by: Justencase6 I'm trying to get this controller board to run at 5v and it is giving me 3.3v at the point that I bleave need to be,before I ...

It's correct. Both boards have 3 GND connections next to each other. For example:

This is what you need: The joystick is designed to work just like pushing a button, so the GPIO pins will see that and Retrogame will issue a keypres...

Posted by: fruitybit Won't be long before I get one of these wonderful kits on order, may I ask; I got hold of a psp 1003 model, hope that would be c...

Posted by: speck Posted by: othermod The Pi Zero W is a perfect fit in the Version 3. We've now got Wifi and Bluetooth in the PSPi. Thats great...

Do you have a voltmeter to check voltages when it's turning on and off? I'm curious what you're getting between the pad shaded black the top one that'...

Almost. Get rid of that blue wire. If you keep it connected then the amp will stay off.

The Pi Zero W is a perfect fit in the Version 3. We've now got Wifi and Bluetooth in the PSPi.

It appears that the RetroPie images aren't working yet.

Posted by: sonicmule She's a beauty. I'm still waiting for mine to arrive, but it appears that all the pads are in the same place. They aren't...

Posted by: djmulder Posted by: othermod I've done some comparisons. My concern was the microSD connection pads, and it looks like the pad locations...

I've done some comparisons. My concern was the microSD connection pads, and it looks like the pad locations are the same.

The SHDN pin gets connected to GND to shut off the amp

Posted by: djmulder But would the v3 board fit and work tho? Other than the connectors being different is there any other issue? I just found a psp o...

Posted by: Assomnia Posted by: woozer Just a heads up, you were talking about HD, but these screens do not have a HD resolution. Most are 480X272 I...

The pins are the same as the one in the video, everything connects the same. The only difference on this is that the board size was increased a little...

Posted by: Assomnia Found this about the screen : 4.3 HD screen That LCD is basically the same as the one I'm using in the builds. The HDMI port i...

You're totally nuts. I'm nuts too though, and most of this sounds doable. Bluetooth and WiFi can be added if they are small, but you'll also need a ve...

Looking good. I like the silver case.

Posted by: lawrence.erb I just pre ordered the PSP 1000 version 3 kit, and while it is good that the actual payment info through paypal is going thro...

Posted by: day177 You can give the wiring diagram? What are the complications it causes? You lose most of the GPIO, so buttons and possibly audio ...

Posted by: day177 Raspberry support 24bit parallel lcd interface by GPIO. Why not use it? I am working on it for my own build. It brings other com...

One more, then I'm calling it a night. This one actually arrived completely dead and the 5v modification brought it back to life. I assume the buck wa...

This LCD is a little different from the others. The LCD is 50-pin instead of the normal 40-pin. Other than that it works the same. This one drops 12v...

And another one. Can you guys tell that I've been working really hard to find an LCD I can stock? I'm sorry I can't give links for you to purchase the...

Posted by: demianc New to the site and am excited about trying this myself. Do you have an eta on a PSP300X build? Right now I don't know what p...

Here is another one. I bought this one a long time ago and I don't remember where I got it from. This one has another variation of the 1509, and it w...

OK so I ordered a new LCD and it's different than any past ones, so here it is for you guys. I purchased a ton of these last week from a guy that isn'...

So I removed everything that's not needed anymore, except for the capacitor labeled 220. It's not needed, but an extra capacitor never hurts. That is ...

Posted by: rutledge.allen.l Buddy you can't catch a break on the LCDs. I just received a huge order of LCD (not from eBay, I'm still waiting on t...

Posted by: rutledge.allen.l got another screen. Doesn't appear to be plug and play. Which converter gets pulled? I think your image got deleted....

0.5mm

Check that out. It's an operational amplifier in the emulator. I would use an LM393. The other alternative is the zener and a p-fet, but I couldn't ge...

The fet would have to be in addition to the ones already in the on/off circuit (if you're planning to incorporate it) Also, something just occurred to...

That's exactly the direction I'm pondering on. Using a mosfet that switches off when anything above a certain voltage (4.2v i guess) is supplied to th...

It's probably a leftover from a previous version of the board. Most of the cheap buck converters use a diode in their function. This buck doesn't need...

Posted by: vrpc Yea, we have a software guy that makes this easy on the rest of us. He is actually one of the main contributors to lakka and one of t...

You might be getting a voltage drop across the inductor. Whats the voltage at the pin2/3 bridge?

Posted by: trickluvdakid Did not try. Removed the buck and there is continuity from pin 2/3 to the resistor. Will hook up to 5V after lunch to verif...

Posted by: trickluvdakid Did some continuity checks, and I agree with your drawing. Removing the buck and jumper pin 2 > pin 3 looks correct. Work...

Posted by: rutledge.allen.l Calling it a night. No go on this screen. I wired a hot wire to Pin 2 and then tried 3. At 2 I get 0 going past that. On ...

Ok the open RPi USBs complicate it. If you had it broken out then putting the diode on it would probably work. I'm going to ponder on it.

I've considered doing it for my own builds, but I don't see a way to make it a feature in a board I'm selling. The amount of support I'd have to provi...