1/3/18 – The kits are now shipping. They aren’t moving quickly yet, but I’ll gradually ship faster as the building and testing process speeds up. I see that many of you added messages to your orders, and I’ll respond to them as your order comes up for shipment. I’m also going to contact everyone that ordered the cell phone batteries with the kit and offer to switch to the new Hobby King Turnigy batteries if you want easier attachment. This page will now get converted to showcase all the new features. The Version 4 assembly guide is here.
Backorders are available for V4, and can be placed on the V4 Product Page. These will be backordered for at least the next few weeks. If you prefer to wait until positive stock is available, you can sign up on the product page to be notified.
Use of the PSP’s original battery was discussed in the past. I added solder pads to the Version 4 board for a PSP battery connector, and if you want a connector included with your shipment please add a note to your order that you want it included. I’m not charging extra for the connector, but I will not be soldering these in place for you. Please understand that the original PSP battery was rated for 3.6v and my charging circuits are for the newer 3.7v battery chemistry. Some of the newer PSP aftermarket batteries are rated for 3.7v. Please do not use a 3.6v PSP battery on this board, it can lead to damage or injury if the battery becomes overcharged.
Hardware Changes in Version 4
LCD Driven Using GPIO
All LCD control is integrated into the all-in-one, meaning no external controller is needed. The new LCD connects directly to the FPC-40 connector on the board.
The backlight can be dimmed using the Display button on the PSP. Backlight dimming allows for substantial reduction in power consumption and increased play time. Currently there are only two settings (one for dim and one for bright), but more settings will be possible as the software improves.
The GPIO-driven display gives a much clearer and brighter image than the composite LCD in previous builds.
The LCD Runs at the same 480 x 272 resolution as the original PSP
Improved Battery Attachment and Management
A JST-PH connector is now included and soldered to the board, and makes connecting the battery much simpler and safer. The board has clear labels for battery polarity, since Chinese batteries sometimes have reversed pins on the JST connector. DO NOT attach a battery backwards!
Play while you charge. The power consumption of the system is typically under half an amp (as low as 1/4 amp when the LCD is dimmed), and the charging rate is 1 amp, so you’re able to play while the PSPi is plugged in and charging.
The charging circuit works with 3.7v lithium/lipo batteries only.
Improved Battery Monitoring and Indicator
Battery voltage is monitored using a 12-bit analog-digital converter. This voltage is constantly averaged and reported using an indicator at the top-right of the LCD. This indicator is persistent and remains on the LCD at all times. The indicator also shows the charging status when the battery is charging.
The joystick no longer needs to be soldered. Gold-plated pads make use of the attachment method of the original PSP. The pads are thicker than the ones on the original PSP’s motherboard, making the connection more reliable and drift less likely to occur.
True analog input. The joystick input is the same 12-bit analog-digital converter that monitors the battery, and gives the full range of motion in games that support it.
Can also be used as a mouse. I won’t be supplying the code for this (at least initially), but the capability is there.
Simpler Attachment of the Raspberry Pi Zero
The board has a pre-installed header for easy soldering of the Pi Zero. It also has gold-plated pogo pins for the SD card and USB port, removing the need to solder those features.
The CSI connector is used for communication with the onboard ICs, and a cable is included with each kit.
Speaker wires will attach using 1.0mm JST connectors. The wires will have to be soldered to the speakers initially, but connection and disconnection will be easy once the new wires are soldered.
Integrating more features allows for lower power consumption and more control over what features are enabled and disabled
The removal of the external LCD controller removes much of the power consumption and heat generation.
LCD can be dimmed to lower power consumption
My tests (with the cell phone batteries from v3) put the play time over 6 hours and command line time at 18 hours. This relies heavily on the quality and capacity of the batteries.
Boost converter is no longer part of the board, and this improves efficiency by 10-20%. The microUSB port at the top is powered directly from battery.
Better emergency shutdown circuits
Will kill power once battery is depleted (about 3.5v). This is a hard-wired feature that won’t require software to function. It serves as a backup in case the software features aren’t working for some reason. If the PSPi is powered on with depleted batteries, it will power off almost immediately.
More accurate hole positioning, which is needed for proper joystick alignment
Better USB port positioning
Additional indication LEDs
LED indication on the left side for SD card activity (or any other use for those that know how to code)
Improved audio filtering to get rid of more PWM noise. Very similar to the audio circuit in the Pi 2.
Speakers can be switched off using the switch on the left side (which will lower power consumption and give a little more play time)
Pressing the Home button will exit games in the same manner as pressing Start+Select
I2C pads to attach devices.
All of the PSP’s buttons will work.
Volume buttons will be able to adjust volume up and down.
Other Features of Version 4
The board will only have RetroPie compatibility at release, but Lakka is built on the same software and can be made compatible.
MicroSD port has been relocated to the bottom of the V4 board.
A connector has been added to the bottom of the board, and will help to add a headphone jack at a later time.
Ability to add a connector and use the original PSP’s battery. This is not a recommended addition since the PSP’s battery has a different operating voltage, but it is available for those that want it. I’ll include the connector and the end user can solder it into position, just let me know you want it included by adding a note to your order.
Solder pads on the bottom to add additional I2C modules. This allows you guys to add RTC modules, or even add additional inputs.
Check it out (and help improve it) on GitHub