PSPi 1000 Version 4

12/14/17 – The final prototypes have been sent out to users for testing. The final boards will be manufactured over the next two weeks (color will be Black for the first group of boards), and assembly will begin at the end of the month. As long as no issues exist on the final board, orders should still start going out at the end of the month.

Pre-orders are open for V4, and can be placed as a backorder on the V4 Product Page. Thank you guys for the pre-orders you’ve placed so far. It’s good to know that you are as excited as I am to start shipping these.

If you prefer to wait until the board is released and stocked, the product page also allows you to sign up to get notified when it is in stock. The board is still under development, but design is close to completion. The first shipments should start going out within the next month or so (hopefully sometime in December), and will go out at a trickle at first while I perfect the building/testing process. The final prototype is on the way now and will arrive mid to late November. It needs to be thoroughly tested/stressed and software needs to be finished. The final board will then be made, which takes approximately 2-3 weeks. Shipments will begin once that arrives. I cannot give an exact shipping date, but I will work as quickly as possible to get them out. Edit: I noticed that my site’s international shipping weights were a little off and a few people got overcharged for shipping ($23 instead of the normal $15ish) when they added a couple accessories. I’ll refund the differences when the boards go out. I’ve fixed the cause of the issue.

Use of the PSP’s original battery was discussed in the past. I added solder pads to the Version 4 board for a PSP battery connector, and if you want a connector included with your shipment please add a note to your order that you want it included. I’m not charging extra for the connector, but I will not be soldering these in place for you. Please understand that the original PSP battery was rated for 3.6v and my charging circuits are for the newer 3.7v battery chemistry. Some of the newer PSP aftermarket batteries are rated for 3.7v. Please do not use a 3.6v PSP battery on this board, it can lead to damage or injury if the battery becomes overcharged.


Visit the Version 4 Store Page if you want be preorder or get notified when the board gets released.

Discord channel for Version 4 is up for anyone interested in getting involved or giving input
Files are up on GitHub for buttons, joystick, etc.

Hardware Changes in Version 4

LCD driven using GPIO

All LCD control will be integrated into the all-in-one, meaning no external controller will be needed.

Backlight dimming allows for reduction in power consumption.

Greatly improves the quality of the display.

Runs at the same resolution as the original PSP

Improved battery charging

Precision battery voltage monitoring.

Play while you charge. The power consumption is typically under half an amp (as low as 1/4 amp), and charging is set to 1A, so you’re able to play while the PSPi is plugged in and charging.

Works with 3.7v lithium batteries, and includes a JST connector for easy and safe attachment.

Improved joystick

True analog input (in the games that support it)

Can also be used it as a mouse. I won’t be supplying the code for this (at least initially), but the capability is there.

Less soldering required

Uses the original PSP’s method of making joystick contact, so wires don’t need to be soldered to make a connection.

Instead of soldering to the pads on the underside of the Pi Zero (for USB and microSD), gold-plated contact spring pins will be used and the Pi will screw into position.

Easier soldering of the GPIO pins. A header will be pre-soldered to the board, so only the Pi’s GPIO pins will need to be soldered. This wasn’t possible in Version 3 because the LCD controller used all the available space.

JST connector to attach the battery. No more dangerous battery wire soldering.

Speaker wires will attach using 1.0mm JST connectors. The wires will have to be soldered to the speakers initially, but connection and disconnection will be easy once the new wires are soldered.

Increased efficiency

Integrating more features allows for lower power consumption and more control over what features are enabled and disabled

The removal of the external LCD controller removes much of the power consumption and heat generation.

LCD can be dimmed to lower power consumption

Audio can be switched off to lower power consumption

My tests (with the cell phone batteries from v3) put the play time over 6 hours and command line time at 18 hours. This relies heavily on the quality and capacity of the batteries.

Boost converter is no longer part of the board, and this improves efficiency by 10-20%. The microUSB port at the top is powered directly from battery.

Better emergency shutdown circuits

Will kill power once battery is depleted (about 3.5v). This is a hard-wired feature that won’t require software to function. It serves as a backup in case the software features aren’t working for some reason. If the PSPi is powered on with depleted batteries, it will power off almost immediately.

Redrawn outline

More accurate hole positioning, which is needed for proper joystick alignment

Better USB port positioning

Additional indication LEDs

LED indication on the left side for SD card activity (or any other use for those that know how to code)

Better audio using a buffer-filter-amplifier setup

Improved audio filtering to get rid of more PWM noise. Very similar to the audio circuit in the Pi 2.

Speakers can be switched off using the switch on the left side (which will lower power consumption and give a little more play time)

All of the PSP’s buttons will work.

Volume buttons will be able to adjust volume up and down.

Display button will adjust display brightness. This may be done by just alternating brightness in 10% increments when the Display button is pressed, or may be done by pressing and holding Display and then pressing Volume+ or Volume- to adjust brightness up and down. Still working out the specifics.

Pressing the Home button will exit games in the same manner as pressing Start+Select

Other Features of Version 4

Ability to use Lakka. The board will only have RetroPie compatibility at release, but I plan to make an image with Lakka at a later date.

MicroSD port has been relocated to the bottom of the V4 board.

A connector has been added to the bottom of the board, and will help to add a headphone jack at a later time.

Ability to add a connector and use the original PSP’s battery. This is not a recommended addition since the PSP’s battery has a different operating voltage, but it is available for those that want it. I’ll include the connector and the end user can solder it into position, just let me know you want it included by adding a note to your order.

Solder pads on the bottom to add additional I2C modules. This allows you guys to add RTC modules, or even add additional inputs.

Software Progress 

Check it out (and help improve it) on GitHub

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64 thoughts on “PSPi 1000 Version 4

  • May 7, 2017 at 9:42 pm

    First, thank you for creating this site and for offering your amazing kits. I’m relatively new to all of this but I am now inspired to begin building my own PSPi. Quick question regarding Pi3 compatibility – in theory, what would have to be done aside from de-soldering the USB and Ethernet ports? Thanks!

    • othermod
      May 9, 2017 at 2:53 am

      Probably much more than that. The Pi 3 just won’t fit, so there would be some serious plastic modification needed.

      As far as function, it is pin-compatible with the Pi Zero, so electrically it would work on the PSPi Version 3. Version 4 is different entirely though, and I doubt it will be compatible with the Pi 3

      • June 23, 2017 at 8:47 am

        I’m using gpio to driver LCD,use DPI.
        But it do not work.Can you help me?
        here is my config.txt
        # Disable spi and i2c, we need these pins.

        # Set screen size and any overscan required

        # enable the DPI display

        # set up the size to 480×272

        # uncomment for 480×272 display (Adafruit 4.3″)
        hdmi_timings=480 0 40 48 88 272 0 13 3 32 0 0 0 60 0 32000000 3


          • June 23, 2017 at 1:24 pm

            it is working now
            The config.txt is all right.
            the led pin disp must connect to vdd

          • othermod
            June 23, 2017 at 5:16 pm

            Glad you got it working. Was just about to paste a copy of my config.txt (it’s nearly identical).

      • June 24, 2017 at 7:49 am

        what about the psp 4.3 screen?
        There is some problem,it can work,but it can not full screen.It displays in right part of screen.
        I used the same config.txt.
        Can you fix it?

        • June 24, 2017 at 11:35 am

          Finally I found the LQ043T1DG03 datasheet.And it works now!Perfect !

          • othermod
            June 24, 2017 at 12:46 pm

            Looks like you had to adjust the front/back porch

  • May 9, 2017 at 1:55 am

    As for CM3, I definitely agree with you that this is something worth undertaking, even as a version 4.1 or 5. This makes it much easier to upgrade in the future to a CM4 for a power boost without the need rebuild everything from the ground up.
    I personally think it’s worth remaining with the raspberry pi architecture vs trying something else. I personally tried the latest ASUS Tinker Board that is trying to compete with RPi. It does give a performance boost, but support for retropie is really bad. Even RPi started up as a fairly simple SBC and it really only picked up after a vast community was built around it. Just my two cents… 🙂

  • May 9, 2017 at 2:04 am

    Think it would be great to see v4 use the original battery.

    • othermod
      May 12, 2017 at 2:16 pm

      Hoping to be able to xfer the work over to a 2000 or 3000 version. There are some pretty substantial barriers keeping me from building those right now though.

    • othermod
      May 21, 2017 at 8:39 pm

      Not positive exactly what the height is on that one, but so far all the ones I’ve found have a little too much height (mostly 2.0mm and I need 1.7mm).

  • May 23, 2017 at 8:02 pm

    Nice news!
    About the new LCD drive method, how many GPIOs are needed to control de LCD?
    And the GPIOs remainig are enought for the complete keypad (Dpad, A, B, X, Y, L, R, Select, Start)
    How solve this?

    Thank you!

    • othermod
      May 23, 2017 at 10:58 pm

      The LCD takes nearly all of them, leaving only a couple for buttons. I’ve had to get very creative using additional modules to add more GPIO pins.

      • May 24, 2017 at 7:15 am

        This is where a design that includes the CM3 module in it makes a huge difference! With the CM3 module you get access to all the RPi GPIO connections and not just 40 of them as with other ones.
        Obviously this is a day 2 solution for now as you mentioned.

        One request though as for updates, if you could; hard to see what was updated vs previous update.


  • May 25, 2017 at 3:22 pm

    Still am floored by how rapid these iterations are and how big your scope is. Can’t wait to give version 4 to my electrical engineer to solder up!!

  • June 6, 2017 at 1:22 pm

    Loving the improvements! Backlight control is essential for squeezing out extra battery life.

    Regarding the driver, you can write a continuous polling script in python (probably the easiest if the driver itself is in python). You will just have to make it into a service, which you can then enable when the system starts.

    As an example, I had written a python script which controls the backlight of a TFT which is attached to GPIO 18.

    • othermod
      June 6, 2017 at 3:32 pm

      I love it. It looks like the button does exactly what the PSP’s brightness button does. Something like this would definitely be easy to add to my existing python script that already runs to look for the shutdown button.

  • June 6, 2017 at 2:27 pm

    Quick thought to throw out there…
    It seems like if you extend the bottom left side of your PCB you could actually have at least the MicroSD card in place for the side loading of it. If that’s true it will make it a lot easier instead of soldering and gluing the SD card.
    Also, while at it, though there is a height difference, could there also be a way to have the audio jack directly soldered to the PCB, or potentially to a smaller PCB as part of the kit that attaches to the main PCB with an FFC flat cable?

    All this would make for a very easy rip and replace kit!

    • othermod
      June 6, 2017 at 3:12 pm

      I’ve been tinkering with different methods of doing exactly that. The 6 square vias on the left side are for the microSD. I’ve got a couple different sd slots I’m trying out, but alignment will be a problem. I’ll probably have to stack a smaller PCB on the underside of the main board so that the microSD slot is lines up with the plastics. As for the audio jack, I think I’m going to make an optional additional board that just pops into place or that is easy to solder. I wanted to be able to make this board hold the microSD slot too, but I doubt the height will be right unless I can find a upside-down microSD slot.

  • June 15, 2017 at 7:43 pm

    in the spots where there are no traces, you could take off material, making the board slightly lighter. this will also allow us to hide cables (if there are any) underneath the board

  • June 15, 2017 at 7:49 pm

    can you also try to make this compatible with the pi 3 model b. I’m fine with desoldering the thing, i just want a powerful board in my custom psp.

  • June 18, 2017 at 5:04 pm

    another idea i had was making the controller work over usb, this will (most likely) drastically save gpio headers, which can simplify the board. this can also make the software config far easier, as the controls will already be translated into something that lakka and retropie can understand. although the board will have to be programmed by either us, or the pcb manufacturer.

    • othermod
      June 18, 2017 at 8:42 pm

      Most people do it this way, but I’m not a fan. That means adding a USB hub and ATMega, and then having to program each board manually. Too many things that can go wrong for the end user. I prefer special-purpose components because of the increased reliability. It’s causing the design portion to take longer, but I think it’s worth it.

      Also, my plan with this board is to have zero wires. Some soldering of pins might or might not be needed, but there won’t be any wires.
      Currently it isn’t compatible with a Pi 3, but it’s possible that something could change. There’s still lots of work ahead.

  • July 7, 2017 at 5:05 pm

    Would it be better to use a compute module since it is about the same size as the zero but much more powerful?

    • othermod
      July 7, 2017 at 5:48 pm

      Gotta save something for V5.
      The compute module would be better in many ways, but that means adding everything from this + WiFi and Bluetooth. Too much for one guy that does this in his off time. It’s possible it will happen, but it would be further down the road. I expect something with quad core that’s comparable to the Pi Zero will get released eventually, and when that happens I’ll be making a board for it.

    • othermod
      July 19, 2017 at 3:53 pm

      I wanted to originally with V3, just couldn’t find one that worked in the available space. I don’t want to use it on this version because I’m trying to make it so that no glue is needed.

  • July 22, 2017 at 12:36 pm

    mate i have been following the project and it fantastic only comment i have it i have seen a orange pi zero 2 plus which is 4 core and may fit in a future project !

    • othermod
      July 22, 2017 at 12:48 pm

      I saw it a few weeks ago and it looks very promising. I haven’t done any research to see how much community support it has and how good gaming performance is. I might be buying a couple for tests.

    • othermod
      August 7, 2017 at 1:44 pm

      As soon as I am confident with the features I’ll be including. I’ve got at least one more prototype to build before I’m ready to make that call.

  • August 7, 2017 at 9:04 pm

    Definetly go for the 4.2v and better capasity choice.. it is logic.
    And batteries are cheap and easy to get a hold of.

  • August 9, 2017 at 8:18 am

    Hope I’m not treading on your trade secrets here, but how are you doing the on-board/GPIO LCD control? Is there any chance you will type up an instruction for it, or maybe share your own sources?

    BTW, I would always prefer the 3.7V batteries for the additional capacity.


    • othermod
      August 9, 2017 at 11:57 am

      It uses publicly available (and very difficult to decipher) info from

      I 100% plan to make a tutorial, and maybe even design a small LCD board that sits on top of the Pi Zero. This is one of the best features the Pi has to offer and it’s not available to most people because of the difficulty setting it up. As most of you know though I’m in way over my head and won’t have time for a while.

      • August 9, 2017 at 9:49 pm

        Very glad to hear that! Screens is a main concern for me in my projects, at least when I cant fit an HDMI controller board.

  • August 9, 2017 at 2:44 pm

    Very nice work on the prototype 1 ! The screen quality looks great ! Thanks for the video 😉

  • August 10, 2017 at 12:16 am

    have you managed to find away of using the original screen? i wanting to make one with the clear resolution of the original screen.

    • othermod
      August 10, 2017 at 1:10 pm

      I got it working a while back, but there is a flicker in the screen I cannot get rid of. Tried everything I knew to try, but I think its due to the Pi having a fixed 9.6Mhz clock and the PSP’s LCD needing 9.0Mhz. It’s on the back burner for now.

      I’m not missing it though. The LCD I’m using in place of it is glorious.

      • August 10, 2017 at 4:54 pm

        is the one you are using the one you sell on your website?

        • August 10, 2017 at 4:56 pm

          im wanting to learn how to design my own pcb any tips ?

        • othermod
          August 10, 2017 at 5:58 pm

          Not exactly. The one I sell is meant to attach to the Pi’s composite pin, and is used for v3. The panel itself will probably be compatible with the v4, but it’s not the panel I’ll be using.

          As far as tips for PCB design, I recommend starting with other people’s schematics and board designs to see what they have done. Pick something small, like one of the boards Adafruit sells. They give out the design files for free. You can view and edit them with Eagle, or just import them into an online editor like EasyEDA. Just do lots of research, read tons of datasheets, and watch YouTube videos. I don’t really have any specific links, but YouTube is full of good stuff.

          Feel free to ask any questions here or on Discord

          • August 11, 2017 at 4:11 am

            does the monitor you sell work with pi3?

    • othermod
      August 10, 2017 at 1:07 pm

      It’ll be pretty close to the last one, but I don’t have an exact number yet. They will cost me more to build, but the LCDs will be cheaper.

  • September 27, 2017 at 2:55 pm

    I check this post weekly with bated breath. I CAN NOT wait!

  • October 9, 2017 at 7:09 pm

    Will there ever be a tutorial for this version with the kit and everything you need?

  • October 17, 2017 at 4:17 pm

    Hi, love the work your doing. have you thought about using the pi3 compute module? It provides far more processing power than the pi zero but in the same form factor. kite over at sudomods has just done one but for a gameboy shell. thought you could possibly do the same but your own version (obviously 🙂 )

    • October 17, 2017 at 4:22 pm

      Woops! should of read more closely, it has already been suggested.

      • othermod
        October 18, 2017 at 12:42 am

        It has, but more people asking might cause me to focus a little more on it. Thank you for the suggestion.

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