PSPi Version 4 Assembly Guide

PSPi Version 4 boards are shipping, so it’s time for a guide. I’ve added images to show the assembly process, but the guide is still being written. Some areas aren’t thorough enough yet. I’ll be modifying this for the next few weeks. Most recent update 1/14/18


Components

Here’s what you receive in your kit. Board, LCD, wires, and screws.

To complete the build, you need the following: Pi Zero or Pi Zero W, battery with JST connector, microSD card, USB to microUSB or USB to miniUSB adapter, PSP charger or USB charging adapter.

The board has a JST PH 2.0mm connector for battery attachment, making it compatible with many available batteries such as the one shown here.


Assembly Process

The CSI cable is shown here. This comes preinstalled in the connector on the board, and must be attached to the Pi Zero.

The cable is somewhat long and needs to be folded underneath the Pi Zero so it’s not in the way.

The Pi Zero can now be mounted to the board using the 4 M2.5 screws.

Once the Pi is mounted, the header pins have to be soldered to the holes on the Pi Zero.

Disassemble your broken PSP (teardowns are available online, such as this). You should end up with a pile of internal components, and this.

Remove the speakers from the case.

Remove the wires and solder the JST SH wires that were included in the kit.

And install them back into the case. I chose to route the right speaker wire through the hole and through the battery compartment.

And the left speaker.

Now the plastic shell needs to be slightly modified. This starts with the protruding plastic underneath the 24-pin ribbon cable for the controls.

Cut it flush with the surrounding plastic.

Some pieces need to be removed from the UMD bay as well, near the spring.

Trim these flush as well.

Hook the speakers up to the board and install it into the shell. I recommend hooking them into the connector closest to the speaker, unlike what I did for this photograph.

Install the cables. Here’s the power cable that goes into the power connector.

The FPC-24 ribbon

The FPC-10 ribbon

Install the LCD bracket. Loosely install the screws, so the bracket can be adjusted slightly if need be.

Make sure the small protrusion on the D-pad sits in the notch on the LCD bracket.

Before tightening the screws, position the bracket as shown here. The joystick pads should be approximately centered in the open area on the bracket to prevent short-circuits. Also pay attention to the two small components directly above the bracket. The components have a small white outline, and you should attempt to line the top of the bracket with the white line under the components. This was unintentional a**hole design with the placement of those two components.

Once you’ve aligned the bracket, tighten the screws.

Install the UMD bay door now if you plan on using the UMD door retention screws. You may need to slightly trim it to help clear the JST connector.

Then install the LCD.

Then install the small control bracket under the LCD

Install the triggers and put the top on the shell, then install all remaining screws.

Install your battery into the battery compartment and attach it to the board’s JST connector. You can route the wire through the notch between the battery compartment and the UMD bay. Make sure your battery has the correct wiring. Some Chinese ones have the right JST connector, but the pins are reversed. Hooking a battery up backwards will probably fry the protection circuits on my board. I put very large letters on the board to show which side is positive (typically the red wire) and negative (typically the black wire).

And install the battery cover.

 


Software

The guide is written for an offline installation. It assumes that you have a freshly imaged microSD card with RetroPie 4.3.

Start by visiting the othermod Github at https://github.com/othermod/PSPi-1000-Version-4

Download everything by clicking the “Clone or download” button and hitting “Download ZIP”

Once you do that, extract the download using your favorite ZIP file extraction software.

Open the extracted folder, then copy the entire contents to your microSD card. Overwrite the files on the SD card, such as config.txt

Install your SD card into the microSD slot on the PSPi board

Attach a USB keyboard (using either the miniUSB connector on the PSPi board or the microUSB connector on the Pi Zero) and power the system on by pushing the power switch upward for a moment.

Once the system boots, press F4 on the keyboard to exit to the command line.

Type the following command and press Enter to install everything:

sudo bash /boot/pspi/setup.sh

It will do a bunch of installations and configurations, then it will reboot after you press a button. After the reboot the configuration is finished and the PSPi is ready to use.

 

 


Important Things to Know

The green power LED will turn orange when the battery is needing a charge. This works even when the battery detection code is not running.

Press Select and Square together to enter Retroarch configuration from within a game

The display button will adjust the brightness

Pressing Select and the Volume buttons will adjust the volume up and down

Press the Home button to exit games (works the same as pressing Start + Select)

The switch on the left side of the case will switch the speakers on and off


Common Questions and Problems

Volume is too low

From EmulationStation, press Start and go to Sound Settings. Adjust volume higher and try it in a game.

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5 thoughts on “PSPi Version 4 Assembly Guide

  • January 9, 2018 at 5:13 pm
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    Great work! Can’t wait to get started on mine! Eagerly awaiting delivery of my board. I will be sure to come back and share my complete build.

  • January 10, 2018 at 12:03 am
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    So just checking, does this use the OEM headphone jack as is? Also, any idea of when the board will be done with backorder?

    • othermod
      January 10, 2018 at 1:31 am
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      It makes use of the OEM speakers, but not the headphone jack at the moment. There’s a 4-pin JST connector on the board that interfaces with the audio, for you guys that want to solder it up, but my plan is to use the 4-pin connector for a headphone board a little bit later. The headphone board should automatically disable the speakers when headphones are attached, and will possibly have a relocated microSD slot.

      • January 12, 2018 at 6:56 am
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        What do you mean with “headphone board”. Is it an addition to v4 and will be sold separately? ETA?

        • othermod
          January 12, 2018 at 1:42 pm
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          I put a 4-pin connector on the board that carries the un-amplified audio signal. I’m working on something that will plug into that connector and bring audio to a headphone jack.

          It’s an addition to v4. My focus is on shipping the v4 backorders first (which will take most of my time for the next month), then I’ll work on the headphone board.

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