PSPi Version 1000.3

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Update 1/14/17

Prototype 2 arrived and I’m putting it through some tests. The Pi gets soldered directly to the board. All GPIO connections and SD card connections get routed through the board. The board has a switch in the position of the PSP’s original Wifi switch, and it is used to turn the audio on and off. The PSP’s power input connector is included, so no soldering is needed for it. The battery gets soldered to the bottom opposite the power connector. USB is included. I’m really happy with the results, and so far it looks like only a couple small tweaks need to be made to the final version. Check it out below.


Version 1000.3 is going to be a little different, and will start with me designing a custom PCB. Instead of manual soldering of the wires, a PCB will interface with the FPC connectors and GPIO. Initially the plan was only to make a board that interfaced with the FPC, but this grew into an all-in-one. It doesn’t integrate every feature, but it integrates most of them. The end result will be a project that takes hours to complete instead of days or weeks. Hopefully this will open the project up to more people that want to build it. This won’t be a drop-in replacement for the original PSP board, and it will still require some decent soldering skills, but the process will be simplified.

The hardest part of this design has been the PSP casing. Fitting everything in properly, getting the mounting holes lined up, lining up the USB, and orientation of the Pi has been very difficult. I didn’t have anyone else’s work as a starting point, so this has been a slow process.  I’m almost there though.

These circuits will be included on the PCB:
LED Status Circuit for Charging and Low Battery
Raspberry Pi Low Battery Warning LED Circuit
Raspberry Pi Zero Audio Filter Circuit
Updated On/Off Circuit
Simple Joystick using LM339
Audio Amplifier Using PAM8403
Lithium battery management (proper lithium charging, protection, and boosting to 5v)

Overall PCB design progress – Updated 1/4/17 – Features Locked, No Additional Features Will Be Added

  • Design and Order Test Board for New On/Off Power Board Complete
  • Test and Integrate On/Off Power Board Complete
  • Integrate LED Status Circuit for Charging and Low Battery Complete
  • Integrate Raspberry Pi Low Battery Warning LED Circuit Complete
  • Integrate Raspberry Pi Zero Audio Filter Circuit Complete
  • Design and Order Test Board for Audio Amplifier Using PAM8403 Complete
  • Test and Integrate Audio Amplifier Complete
  • Design and Order Test Board for Simple Joystick Circuit using LM339 Complete
  • Test and Integrate Simple Joystick Circuit using LM339 Complete
  • Reposition Pi for Better Fit Complete
  • Design and Order Lithium Charging/Protection Test Board Complete
  • Test and Integrate Charging/Protection Board Complete
  • Design and Order Lithium Boosting Test Board  Complete
  • Test and Integrate Boosting Board Complete
  • Order Prototype 2 – Complete
  • Test Prototype, Order Final Board, Start Pre-Orders


87 thoughts on “PSPi Version 1000.3

  • September 19, 2016 at 10:19 am

    Try and look into this if you can, should be able to grab data using the pi from it and control the led from the pi as well.

    Unsure of space for the battery but dependent on the generation of battery you use as well.

    As with all handheld projects space inside is ALWAYS a factor as you have well pointed out.
    I was looking at doing something like this with my project to ensure room for the iphone battery and allowing for more room for other add ons

    Just a few suggestions, Once I get more of an idea of what everything I want inside I will be making my own. Can’t wait for the custom pbc to be made.

    • September 19, 2016 at 10:35 am

      Thanks for the info. Size would probably be an issue with my project, but the battery is interesting. It would be really great to see a PSPi with a keyboard. That would open up many other possibilities, since at that point it really would be a fully functional computer. I don’t see a reason to destroy a PSP just for the keyboard though, maybe just make a custom shell for the keyboard. Keep an eye on the page for updates on the PCB.

  • September 26, 2016 at 4:30 am

    Look i know tge space is verry small so you’re using the pizero but i was thinking about using pi3 after removing usb and Ethernet ports just to add more horse power to the pspi3 😉
    You might consider adding a an analog and l2 r2 … Sure will make the process of making the new one slow but will make it perfect

    • September 26, 2016 at 1:44 pm

      The Pi 3 is much bigger than the Zero. It would be a very tight fit, and it’s possible it won’t fit at all. I don’t have a Pi 3 to verify, so someone else would have to try it.

      I am working on the analog circuit, and I plan to include it in the next build.

      • September 27, 2016 at 2:24 am

        from what I know the pi 1/2/3 all have the same physical board size but even so the size of it and the heat as well is daunting to put in a psp

  • September 29, 2016 at 6:03 pm

    “Shut up and take my money!”
    This is just outstanding. I’m bookmarking and keeping tabs on this. I’ve been waiting for something exactly like this forever!
    Amazing work.

  • September 30, 2016 at 10:56 am

    Best of luck with your v3! If you get the board finished I will want to buy one, will you sell them?

    I’m about to finish my build based on your v2, but I realize I cramed too much stuff in there with a wifi dongle, teensy controller, usb audio and a USB hub to connect it all. I will probably have to use glue to keep the UMD hatch closed, which lowers the show-off value 🙁

    In your PCB design, are you re-using the little rubber thing that connects to the analog stick in the original PSP? I’m finiding it hard to route the cables with the screen mount attached.


    • September 30, 2016 at 11:49 am

      Yep, I’ll sell them. I’m only making them at all because so many people asked me to.

      I hope to be able to sell them at a reasonable price. I’m doing a little bit of a redesign on it right now because it’s going to cost me a fortune to get the prototype made. I’m hoping to knock off a couple square inches. My cost is probably going to be about $50 per board counting all the parts, and I’m not sure how many people are willing to pay that much.

      I’m not going to use the rubber connector. I plan to just solder to the joystick connections. It’ll still probably take a couple hours to build one of these with the board, since the power supply board, audio amplifier, and SD slot will need to be soldered up.

  • October 1, 2016 at 6:15 am

    Please keep up the work, I’m a noob but am ok at following instructions, I would love to make something like this for my son as a present, so keep going! I will buy one when you’re finished. I was going to do a game boy conversion, but I like your version much better.

  • October 2, 2016 at 3:38 pm

    you should make and sell these so that people who don’t know how to make these or don’t have the abillty to make one can also have one
    you should have a normal usb port on it insted of the psp one
    and a port to conect your pc to it as well (like a micro usb port on the pi)
    and how much will you sell it for because i would like to buy one if it had a micro usb port on it, at least one normal usb port, able to conect to WI-FI, and all the psp buttons, and I’ll think of some other stuff too

    • October 2, 2016 at 4:00 pm

      The miniUSB port already connects to the Pi, and works just like the microUSB. From there, a miniUSB to regular USB adapter is used to connect to other devices. Wifi isn’t a priority right now, but it’ll be included in a later version.

  • October 7, 2016 at 5:47 pm

    Hi friend.
    Great work! I love it!
    I have a question. What should be the value of the ferrites in the audio circuit?

    • October 7, 2016 at 6:49 pm

      At first I thought you were asking what their purpose was.

      I’m still working determining that. Testing a few circuits this weekend, then I’ll post an update.

      • October 7, 2016 at 7:31 pm

        Ok. I’ll wait for it.
        Sorry. Maybe I didn’t use the right words. My primary language isn’t English ^^

        Thank you.

  • October 9, 2016 at 1:20 pm

    Hi, I found your project when searching for pi zero handhelds. I was sure I wanted to build a gameboy, but your project makes me doubt! Really nice work. For the gameboy I am following a topic where Kite is making a custom pcb with alot of features built in. Mabye it can help you! He also built in the screen controllor. Have a look at the topic.

    • October 9, 2016 at 1:28 pm

      I’m working toward that. I’ve even received some help from the guys on the Sudomod forum, including Kite. I don’t have the amount of PCB design experience that they have, but I’m working toward it. The design process takes me a lot longer than it would take them.

  • October 11, 2016 at 2:42 pm

    Hey im very interested in those kind of projects and love to experiment, as 50$ is quite a lot for me im always looking to find cheaper ways, maybe you can tell me what this PCB would cost if made on

      • October 11, 2016 at 3:10 pm

        I’ve tried that in the past. It works great with larger routed wires, but fails pretty badly on small ones like what I have here. That’s my experience at least.

    • October 11, 2016 at 2:53 pm

      I’m already looking into different companies for the final board. I’m still prototyping, and I’m sticking with the USA based company OshPark until the final design is hammered out. Their prices are a higher than the Chinese companies.

      If cost is an issue for you, you might be interested in the smaller boards I’m getting made. They require a little more soldering but the cost is less. I expect them to start arriving in a couple weeks.

      • October 11, 2016 at 11:27 pm

        Im not scared from soldering 🙂

        (Xbox 360 Controller modded,
        Xbox 360 console RGH 2.0,
        Pi2 + APA102 LED TV Ambilight)

  • October 24, 2016 at 10:22 am

    Hey bud, great work. I have an old psp 1000 that I plan on doing this to. $50 is doable considering parts, laybor, and all the work that will be taken out of the equation for the buyer. I plan on buying one once you have them completed. You’ve probably been asked this before, but have you considered using the screen that comes in the psp? Is the rewiring not worth the effort considering the screen you used can be found sub $20? Keep up the good work man. I know it is helping me along with many others!

    • October 24, 2016 at 10:28 am

      It’s a combination of problems. When I first started the project there weren’t any good ways to interface with the original LCD. Now there is an HDMI driver board that can do the job (I have one on the way actually so I can test fit and modify it), but the cost is 2x to 3x the cost of the composite LCD. The video quality on the HDMI board is going to be much better than the composite, so it’ll be a decision over which one is more practical for each person.

      • October 25, 2016 at 8:09 pm

        Can you give me the link to this HDMI driver board? And thanks for the info bud. Keep up the good work man!

  • November 1, 2016 at 5:38 pm

    Your project is amazing! Very inspiring! Thank you very much for sharing!
    I was also wondering how to connect the joystick and keep its analogous nature. So far I have not found anything about Adafruit’s Retrogame supporting I2C or SPI devices. I hoped that you could find a simpler way than writing a special driver for the joystick… 🙁
    Still wondering why your way does not work because of delays, since all frequencies(sampling and transfer) must be more than sufficient. Problem could be in the way your driver is written. Maybe I could help with that…

    • November 1, 2016 at 7:08 pm

      So I’m using a python script that utilizes spidev and uinput. It polls the MCP3002 (using spidev) at whatever interval I choose, and returns the values of 0-1023 for each channel. I can then use uinput to send those values to the OS, but that is where I’m stuck right now. Uinput can send the values to ABS-X and ABS-Y, but I haven’t learned what to do from there. It can also just send Up, Down, Left, or Right, and possibly do that for a varying about of time depending on the value of the joystick position, but this is another area I would have to research more.

      This is taking a little too much of my time right now, time I should be spending on the Version 3 board. I’ll probably have to address this later, once I get the board finished, and just add it to a later revision.

    • November 1, 2016 at 7:10 pm

      Oh and when I said it was causing delays I meant that it was delaying me from getting the board finished. Python is reading the values of the MCP3002 with no problems.

  • November 7, 2016 at 10:25 am

    Amazing! And a big yes! I would buy it.
    I am truly amazed with the effort you are putting into this.
    Sadly the Raspberry Pi Zero’s are hard to get in my country, got 2 of them but payed way too much for them.
    Keeping this bookmarked!

    • November 7, 2016 at 10:26 am

      Thank you for the comment. I’m working hard to get this ready for you guys, and these comments keep me motivated.

    • November 7, 2016 at 10:27 am

      Forgot to ask, what version of the PSP are you using for this project? I got a 3004 taking up dust 😛

      • November 7, 2016 at 10:51 am

        1000 series right now. 2000 and 3000 series boards will come at a later time. I’m working on 1000 series kits that will include all aftermarket/used parts (case, connectors, etc) for anyone that doesn’t have a broken PSP 1000.

  • November 7, 2016 at 7:50 pm

    will you be selling the all-in-one PCB alone or just in the kits ? and will it be pre-soldered or bare ? Btw… g8 job on it, i will be buying one no matter what when it is ready 🙂

    • November 7, 2016 at 7:56 pm

      Both alone and in a kit. I plan to sell all pre-soldered, but I can sell empty boards if there is demand for it.

  • November 7, 2016 at 10:16 pm

    I like to buy empty board but getting all the components front you .just to get my hand on

  • November 8, 2016 at 9:42 am

    i am in 100% as soon as you finish i will buy the first pre soldered board 🙂 keep up the amazing work!!!

    • December 30, 2016 at 4:22 pm

      Same. Im already on ebay looking for old PSP 1000 to buy for this project. Im all about pre soldered as well.

  • November 8, 2016 at 7:57 pm

    Have you thought about using a raspberry pi 3 but remove all the ports you don’t need to save space.

    • November 8, 2016 at 7:59 pm

      I have, but my time is very limited while I work on the kits. I want to try a Pi 3 once things settle down.

  • November 10, 2016 at 4:50 am

    This is awsome. I just found this website yesterday and am so excited to make my own pspi. I can’t wait for this board to be avaliable. Does anyone know wifi will be added to the pi zero in this project ? This would be cool

  • November 10, 2016 at 11:36 am

    Please keep up the good work… My friend was selling a Raspberry pi 3 and during my research i stumbled upon this… watching your videos im extremely interested… im looking forward to the final version of this project… i would pay for something like this…

  • November 30, 2016 at 12:27 pm

    Just bought an PSP and waiting for the PCB release … keep up the good work, you had made an very good job so far and thanks for making things like this possible.

    • December 4, 2016 at 9:49 am

      I really have no clue. This is the first time I’ve seen that knockoff. That’s really cool though.

  • December 5, 2016 at 2:33 am

    I saw your posts on the retropie forums and was thinking “wow I wish he would sell this as a kit”

    and now I find out that you are FANTASTIC!

    I am a noob at all of this but I am very excited about the idea. As soon as the kit is ready I am all over it

    A few quick questions

    What would I need to finish the build?
    Will the fact that I am in the UK be a factor?
    Is there any plans to sell complete finished systems??

    Thanks for all the great work!!

    • December 6, 2016 at 7:28 am

      The Pi Zero, SD card, SD adapter, and LCD should just about cover it.
      UK will not be an issue. When the audio boards arrive I’ll open up international shipping.
      I am documenting a few test builds, so there is a good chance one will be listed on eBay.

  • December 6, 2016 at 11:17 pm

    Just got my psp last week. Any Eta for final boards yet

    • December 7, 2016 at 9:59 pm

      All I can say is that I have the circuits 100% designed. I’m in the process of routing everything, and it’s very time consuming. Every tweak causes a dozen other changes. I can say that the second (and hopefully final) prototype will be ordered soon, but I can’t say how soon.

  • December 7, 2016 at 11:15 pm

    Do you plan on having a way to have wifi connectivity? You could have a USB hub. Then you can just attach a USB wifi module. I am sure there are easier ways.

    • December 8, 2016 at 11:59 am

      The features on this board are locked in, and nothing else is being added. Wifi is something I’ll consider adding to a future version, but I’m focused solely on getting this ready to go with the current features.

      That being said, a USB hub can be attached externally to the miniUSB port.

  • December 8, 2016 at 9:37 pm

    I’m excited about this. I can’t wait until you have it completed and ready to buy!

  • December 15, 2016 at 8:52 pm

    i am really curious about the soldering gun that you are using can you provide the details and/or a amazon link i like the vapor extractor

    • December 16, 2016 at 12:21 pm

      eBay Link

      That’s where I got it from 4 years ago. It looks a little different now, but it’s still called the 9020-XTS and the features look the same.

  • December 20, 2016 at 7:19 pm

    just waiting, hope everything is going smooth, I know about the time it takes to develop and send out to PCB companies, I have dealt with OSH Park,
    and was a good experince. So I will hang until your PCB come in. Happy Holidays and a safe New Year !

    • December 22, 2016 at 11:56 am

      It’s also that I’ve had to do a couple prototypes to work out the bugs. I’m definitely ready to have this finished. Hopefully it won’t be much longer.

  • January 2, 2017 at 8:13 pm

    My 1st project was a Pi3 Joker Bar Top arcade. While I’m 1000% satisfied with how it turned out, portable has always fascinated me.

    What you have done is incredible! Lot of detail for a small board. I already clicked on your alert button in the store, do you have a waiting list? If so please add me. Excited to start this project!!

    • January 4, 2017 at 11:06 am

      No waiting list yet. I’ll open up pre-orders when I hit the button to order the final board.

  • January 4, 2017 at 9:14 pm

    Thanks for the reply, I’ll keep checking.
    BTW…been looking through your tutorials, nice job!

  • January 6, 2017 at 3:30 pm

    Great job thus far, do you know what the difference is between the psp 1000 and 2000? i have 2 2000 i would love to bring back to life

    • January 6, 2017 at 3:41 pm

      The pinouts and clearances are different. It’s something I’ll be looking into once I get everything else caught up.

  • January 8, 2017 at 11:08 pm

    Do you plan on sharing the pcb files or schematic? If not that’s fine! Looking forward to being able to order it!

    • January 10, 2017 at 12:08 am

      Maybe same day. I’ve put 6 months and a lot of money into these designs, and I need to recoup a little of the investment before I share it.

  • January 10, 2017 at 6:19 am

    Hello everyone,

    I hope you will receive your order asap !!!!!! 🙂
    I have a question (maybe stupid question…). Is it possible to keep the original LCD display of my PSP?
    I hope my english is good enough…

    • January 10, 2017 at 10:35 am

      It isn’t possible right now because there is no driver for it yet. Maybe sometime in the future.

  • January 15, 2017 at 10:53 am

    prototype 2 looks great, is it the final color for the pcb?
    i really liked the purple pcb from prototype 1.
    i like the audio on/off switch, but will the vol. + and – on the psp front work?
    looking forward to buying one from you 🙂

    • January 15, 2017 at 11:08 am

      I haven’t decided on the final color. This was green to lower the prototype cost.
      The volume buttons, start, and select are all wired to GPIO pins, so they can be programmed to do anything.

  • January 15, 2017 at 2:15 pm

    Great news! Can’t wait to get started on this project!!

  • January 17, 2017 at 11:28 am

    Cant wait to get hold of this board!
    Can you post pictures of how this sits inside the PSP please.
    How does the LCD driver fit in?

    • January 17, 2017 at 12:41 pm

      Sure. I’ll post some pics later.

      It sits right on top of the Pi. There is plenty of room for it now.

  • January 17, 2017 at 5:05 pm

    Hi, im currwntly designing a vustom board for the psp 3006. it uses allwinner a13 olimex system on module, rgb screen, it will have 2 memory cards and other cool hacker friendly features. Now its in schematics stage, but gonna start to design the board soon. Didnt use the raspberry pi bcoz the som had native rgb support and more interface and horsepower. and ofc it would be too easy then xd.

    • January 17, 2017 at 5:54 pm

      Nice. I hope you keep me informed of the progress. I know how complicated the schematics and PCB designs are for these chips, and I would love to see how it turns out.

  • January 19, 2017 at 11:52 am

    What PSP has this been tested with. Going to start getting the hardware now for v3

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