PSPi 1000 Version 3

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Visit the Store page to pre-order or to get notification when this is fully stocked.

Preorder Status: There are currently 62 preorders. I’ll give an estimated wait time once I get the first orders shipped.

2/13/17

The final prototype arrived a little early. I did a test build, and so far everything looks good. I’ll post an update once I stress test everything.

This means the design work is finished on V3.


Thanks for voting guys. This definitely rules out Green, and Red didn’t get too many votes either. It’s between Black and Blue. I’ll make the final call after the new board arrives.

The Prototype 2 test build is complete. I made some pretty substantial changes to the board, some to make the board function better and some to make the assembly process easier. Enough changes were made that I believe a Prototype 3 is needed.

The expectation is that this board will be the final design, and that there won’t be any more changes needed. I’m going to put a small order in (20 or so) at first. Once I’m satisfied with the quality I’ll place a larger order.

Update 1/14/17

Prototype 2 arrived and I’m putting it through some tests. The Pi gets soldered directly to the board. All GPIO connections and SD card connections get routed through the board. The board has a switch in the position of the PSP’s original Wifi switch, and it is used to turn the audio on and off. The PSP’s power input connector is included, so no soldering is needed for it. The battery gets soldered to the bottom opposite the power connector. USB is included. I’m really happy with the results, and so far it looks like only a couple small tweaks need to be made to the final version. Check it out below.

Overview:

PSPi 1000 Version 3 is going to be a little different, and will start with me designing a custom PCB. Instead of manual soldering of the wires, a PCB will interface with the FPC connectors and GPIO. Initially the plan was only to make a board that interfaced with the FPC, but this grew into an all-in-one. It doesn’t integrate every feature, but it integrates most of them. The end result will be a project that takes hours to complete instead of days or weeks. Hopefully this will open the project up to more people that want to build it. This won’t be a drop-in replacement for the original PSP board, and it will still require some decent soldering skills, but the process will be simplified.

The hardest part of this design has been the PSP casing. Fitting everything in properly, getting the mounting holes lined up, lining up the USB, and orientation of the Pi has been very difficult. I didn’t have anyone else’s work as a starting point, so this has been a slow process.  I’m almost there though.

These circuits will be included on the PCB:
LED Status Circuit for Charging and Low Battery
Raspberry Pi Low Battery Warning LED Circuit
Raspberry Pi Zero Audio Filter Circuit
Updated On/Off Circuit
Simple Joystick using LM339
Audio Amplifier Using PAM8403
Lithium battery management (proper lithium charging, protection, and boosting to 5v)


Overall PCB design progress – Updated 1/4/17 – Features Locked, No Additional Features Will Be Added

  • Design and Order Test Board for New On/Off Power Board Complete
  • Test and Integrate On/Off Power Board Complete
  • Integrate LED Status Circuit for Charging and Low Battery Complete
  • Integrate Raspberry Pi Low Battery Warning LED Circuit Complete
  • Integrate Raspberry Pi Zero Audio Filter Circuit Complete
  • Design and Order Test Board for Audio Amplifier Using PAM8403 Complete
  • Test and Integrate Audio Amplifier Complete
  • Design and Order Test Board for Simple Joystick Circuit using LM339 Complete
  • Test and Integrate Simple Joystick Circuit using LM339 Complete
  • Reposition Pi for Better Fit Complete
  • Design and Order Lithium Charging/Protection Test Board Complete
  • Test and Integrate Charging/Protection Board Complete
  • Design and Order Lithium Boosting Test Board  Complete
  • Test and Integrate Boosting Board Complete
  • Order Prototype 2 – Complete
  • Test Prototype, Order Final Board, Start Pre-Orders

 

99 comments

  1. Try and look into this if you can, should be able to grab data using the pi from it and control the led from the pi as well.
    https://ripitapart.com/tag/iphone-gas-gauge/

    Unsure of space for the battery but dependent on the generation of battery you use as well.

    As with all handheld projects space inside is ALWAYS a factor as you have well pointed out.
    I was looking at doing something like this with my project to ensure room for the iphone battery and allowing for more room for other add ons
    http://technabob.com/blog/2009/06/07/how-to-make-your-psp-less-portable/

    Just a few suggestions, Once I get more of an idea of what everything I want inside I will be making my own. Can’t wait for the custom pbc to be made.

    1. Thanks for the info. Size would probably be an issue with my project, but the battery is interesting. It would be really great to see a PSPi with a keyboard. That would open up many other possibilities, since at that point it really would be a fully functional computer. I don’t see a reason to destroy a PSP just for the keyboard though, maybe just make a custom shell for the keyboard. Keep an eye on the page for updates on the PCB.

  2. Look i know tge space is verry small so you’re using the pizero but i was thinking about using pi3 after removing usb and Ethernet ports just to add more horse power to the pspi3 😉
    You might consider adding a an analog and l2 r2 … Sure will make the process of making the new one slow but will make it perfect

    1. The Pi 3 is much bigger than the Zero. It would be a very tight fit, and it’s possible it won’t fit at all. I don’t have a Pi 3 to verify, so someone else would have to try it.

      I am working on the analog circuit, and I plan to include it in the next build.

  3. “Shut up and take my money!”
    This is just outstanding. I’m bookmarking and keeping tabs on this. I’ve been waiting for something exactly like this forever!
    Amazing work.

  4. Hey,
    Best of luck with your v3! If you get the board finished I will want to buy one, will you sell them?

    I’m about to finish my build based on your v2, but I realize I cramed too much stuff in there with a wifi dongle, teensy controller, usb audio and a USB hub to connect it all. I will probably have to use glue to keep the UMD hatch closed, which lowers the show-off value 🙁

    In your PCB design, are you re-using the little rubber thing that connects to the analog stick in the original PSP? I’m finiding it hard to route the cables with the screen mount attached.

    Cheers!

    1. Yep, I’ll sell them. I’m only making them at all because so many people asked me to.

      I hope to be able to sell them at a reasonable price. I’m doing a little bit of a redesign on it right now because it’s going to cost me a fortune to get the prototype made. I’m hoping to knock off a couple square inches. My cost is probably going to be about $50 per board counting all the parts, and I’m not sure how many people are willing to pay that much.

      I’m not going to use the rubber connector. I plan to just solder to the joystick connections. It’ll still probably take a couple hours to build one of these with the board, since the power supply board, audio amplifier, and SD slot will need to be soldered up.

  5. Please keep up the work, I’m a noob but am ok at following instructions, I would love to make something like this for my son as a present, so keep going! I will buy one when you’re finished. I was going to do a game boy conversion, but I like your version much better.

  6. you should make and sell these so that people who don’t know how to make these or don’t have the abillty to make one can also have one
    you should have a normal usb port on it insted of the psp one
    and a port to conect your pc to it as well (like a micro usb port on the pi)
    and how much will you sell it for because i would like to buy one if it had a micro usb port on it, at least one normal usb port, able to conect to WI-FI, and all the psp buttons, and I’ll think of some other stuff too

    1. The miniUSB port already connects to the Pi, and works just like the microUSB. From there, a miniUSB to regular USB adapter is used to connect to other devices. Wifi isn’t a priority right now, but it’ll be included in a later version.

    1. I’m working toward that. I’ve even received some help from the guys on the Sudomod forum, including Kite. I don’t have the amount of PCB design experience that they have, but I’m working toward it. The design process takes me a lot longer than it would take them.

  7. Hey im very interested in those kind of projects and love to experiment, as 50$ is quite a lot for me im always looking to find cheaper ways, maybe you can tell me what this PCB would cost if made on pcbgogo.com?

    1. I’m already looking into different companies for the final board. I’m still prototyping, and I’m sticking with the USA based company OshPark until the final design is hammered out. Their prices are a higher than the Chinese companies.

      If cost is an issue for you, you might be interested in the smaller boards I’m getting made. They require a little more soldering but the cost is less. I expect them to start arriving in a couple weeks.

  8. Hey bud, great work. I have an old psp 1000 that I plan on doing this to. $50 is doable considering parts, laybor, and all the work that will be taken out of the equation for the buyer. I plan on buying one once you have them completed. You’ve probably been asked this before, but have you considered using the screen that comes in the psp? Is the rewiring not worth the effort considering the screen you used can be found sub $20? Keep up the good work man. I know it is helping me along with many others!

    1. It’s a combination of problems. When I first started the project there weren’t any good ways to interface with the original LCD. Now there is an HDMI driver board that can do the job (I have one on the way actually so I can test fit and modify it), but the cost is 2x to 3x the cost of the composite LCD. The video quality on the HDMI board is going to be much better than the composite, so it’ll be a decision over which one is more practical for each person.

    1. I’ve researched that one before and it’s one of my favorites. The only problem I have is the cost. $3/chip is a bit high. Not saying I won’t end up using it, I’m just not ready to make that call yet.

        1. Something like this would be ideal.
          http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Step-Up-Boost-Module-1PC-New-1A-Converter-3V-to-5V-/200983543561?hash=item2ecb8d7f09:g:yyMAAMXQuTNTOMs-
          If they can sell it for a dollar then the parts must be cheap. That’s appears to be the same step-up components that are used in the module I used in my builds. I’m trying to find a schematic for it so I can determine efficiency and how much power is wastes when shut down.

  9. Your project is amazing! Very inspiring! Thank you very much for sharing!
    I was also wondering how to connect the joystick and keep its analogous nature. So far I have not found anything about Adafruit’s Retrogame supporting I2C or SPI devices. I hoped that you could find a simpler way than writing a special driver for the joystick… 🙁
    Still wondering why your way does not work because of delays, since all frequencies(sampling and transfer) must be more than sufficient. Problem could be in the way your driver is written. Maybe I could help with that…

    1. So I’m using a python script that utilizes spidev and uinput. It polls the MCP3002 (using spidev) at whatever interval I choose, and returns the values of 0-1023 for each channel. I can then use uinput to send those values to the OS, but that is where I’m stuck right now. Uinput can send the values to ABS-X and ABS-Y, but I haven’t learned what to do from there. It can also just send Up, Down, Left, or Right, and possibly do that for a varying about of time depending on the value of the joystick position, but this is another area I would have to research more.

      This is taking a little too much of my time right now, time I should be spending on the Version 3 board. I’ll probably have to address this later, once I get the board finished, and just add it to a later revision.

  10. Amazing! And a big yes! I would buy it.
    I am truly amazed with the effort you are putting into this.
    Sadly the Raspberry Pi Zero’s are hard to get in my country, got 2 of them but payed way too much for them.
    Keeping this bookmarked!

      1. 1000 series right now. 2000 and 3000 series boards will come at a later time. I’m working on 1000 series kits that will include all aftermarket/used parts (case, connectors, etc) for anyone that doesn’t have a broken PSP 1000.

  11. will you be selling the all-in-one PCB alone or just in the kits ? and will it be pre-soldered or bare ? Btw… g8 job on it, i will be buying one no matter what when it is ready 🙂

  12. This is awsome. I just found this website yesterday and am so excited to make my own pspi. I can’t wait for this board to be avaliable. Does anyone know wifi will be added to the pi zero in this project ? This would be cool

  13. Please keep up the good work… My friend was selling a Raspberry pi 3 and during my research i stumbled upon this… watching your videos im extremely interested… im looking forward to the final version of this project… i would pay for something like this…

  14. I saw your posts on the retropie forums and was thinking “wow I wish he would sell this as a kit”

    and now I find out that you are FANTASTIC!

    I am a noob at all of this but I am very excited about the idea. As soon as the kit is ready I am all over it

    A few quick questions

    What would I need to finish the build?
    Will the fact that I am in the UK be a factor?
    Is there any plans to sell complete finished systems??

    Thanks for all the great work!!

    1. The Pi Zero, SD card, SD adapter, and LCD should just about cover it.
      UK will not be an issue. When the audio boards arrive I’ll open up international shipping.
      I am documenting a few test builds, so there is a good chance one will be listed on eBay.

    1. All I can say is that I have the circuits 100% designed. I’m in the process of routing everything, and it’s very time consuming. Every tweak causes a dozen other changes. I can say that the second (and hopefully final) prototype will be ordered soon, but I can’t say how soon.

    1. The features on this board are locked in, and nothing else is being added. Wifi is something I’ll consider adding to a future version, but I’m focused solely on getting this ready to go with the current features.

      That being said, a USB hub can be attached externally to the miniUSB port.

  15. just waiting, hope everything is going smooth, I know about the time it takes to develop and send out to PCB companies, I have dealt with OSH Park,
    and was a good experince. So I will hang until your PCB come in. Happy Holidays and a safe New Year !

  16. My 1st project was a Pi3 Joker Bar Top arcade. While I’m 1000% satisfied with how it turned out, portable has always fascinated me.

    What you have done is incredible! Lot of detail for a small board. I already clicked on your alert button in the store, do you have a waiting list? If so please add me. Excited to start this project!!

  17. Hello everyone,

    I hope you will receive your order asap !!!!!! 🙂
    I have a question (maybe stupid question…). Is it possible to keep the original LCD display of my PSP?
    I hope my english is good enough…

  18. prototype 2 looks great, is it the final color for the pcb?
    i really liked the purple pcb from prototype 1.
    i like the audio on/off switch, but will the vol. + and – on the psp front work?
    looking forward to buying one from you 🙂

  19. Hi, im currwntly designing a vustom board for the psp 3006. it uses allwinner a13 olimex system on module, rgb screen, it will have 2 memory cards and other cool hacker friendly features. Now its in schematics stage, but gonna start to design the board soon. Didnt use the raspberry pi bcoz the som had native rgb support and more interface and horsepower. and ofc it would be too easy then xd.

  20. Amazing work – what a cool project, I’m definitely onboard for this, though I’m not 100% sold yet, I’m a stickler for image quality…

    Since you obviously have skills with creation of PCBs and circuits, what is stopping you from creating some kind of interface that allows use of the PSP’s (gorgeous) LCD? I don’t mean to imply that this is *easy* or trivial, and I understand that there is no driver for the LCD, but couldn’t the Pi just output HDMI and then you convert that signal to whatever format (LVDS?) the PSP LCD uses?

    Probably a dumb question, but have you spoken to Ozone (http://assemblergames.com/l/members/ozone.64655/) on the Assembler Games board? He’s making an HDMI-out mod that is broadly compatible with various consoles and portables, so perhaps he could assist you with reversing that process for the PSP LCD? His board is not suited to your mod, it’s meant to tap into the native RGB signal of the consoles, but it seems like his knowledge of HDMI signalling and conversion might still be useful if you wanted to find a cheaper/easier solution to using the original PSP LCD…

    From what I know (which is limited), the brute force approach to this would be to use an FPGA chip to convert the HDMI out from the Pi to the signalling format of the PSP LCD. This would then forgo the need to actually write a driver for the PSP LCD, since the Pi just has to output regular old HDMI.

    I ask because if this hurdle could be cleared it would really enable this project to be the absolute king of Portable (Zero-based) RPis. The idea of doing this mod for $50-$70 is great, but when you throw in the one of those $40 HDMI converter board + LCD combos the cost creeps north of $100 and it becomes a little hard to swallow.

    Do you have plans to eventually release a kit that uses the PSP’s original LCD or is that just plain unlikely/impossible?

    Thanks for all your hard work – I can’t wait to see where this project goes!

    1. I’ll look into the work Ozone has done. I’ve been contacted by 3 separate people saying they are working on schematics to interface HDMI to the original PSP LCD (mostly because the PSP’s screen is so cheap and good). So far nothing has come of it, but my hope is that they can make something I can integrate. My goal definitely is to integrate the LCD controller, but it won’t be easy and it won’t be soon.

      I made the decision not to focus on it right now. The composite LCD gets the job done, and they only cost $15. Is the image quality perfect? No, but it is very good. If I focused all my time on the LCD, it would easily mean another few months of research, design, and testing.

      I fully intend to eventually release a board that uses the PSP’s original LCD, I just can’t be sure when I’ll be able to make it happen.

      1. Understandable – as I said I know it’s not an easy goal to achieve since the PSP’s LCD is proprietary and therefore not easily communicated with.

        Still, don’t be misled – I do think this is a great project, and as soon as you get a solution that either uses the native PSP LCD or (cheaply) uses some kind of external LCD with all-digital video, I’m definitely buying one! I love the idea of getting this set up so that in the future I can just swap out Raspberry Pi modules (assuming they ever release another version of the RP Zero).

        Another somewhat similar question – since you’re already using a custom breakout board, have you considered investigating whether or not it would be feasible to adapt the Raspberry Pi Compute Module? They just released the new Compute Module which uses the RP3’s processor, and its form factor is close enough to the RP Zero that it seems very plausible to adapt a future revision of your breakout board to use the RCM intead of the RPZ.

        Good luck with future revisions, I can’t wait to see what else you come up with!

  21. I’m so impressed with what the little pi board can do. Currently I have my LCD and pi wired up to the Psp power socket and playing with a wireless keyboard. Screen quality is fine, although a little fuzzy at the command prompt. I may invest in a mini Bluetooth and WiFi dongle and have it connected inside, but will wait to see if there’s room for that.

    My money is waiting for you Adam!

  22. Great job!
    How long does the battery last with continuous play?
    I have a couple of PSP1001 units that are kind of useless for anything anymore so this would really repurpose them and a much larger screen with a nicer playable feel than converting a Gameboy!

  23. Could you give me sth like a mechanical drawing with the exact measurements of the pcb? Me and a friend of mine are working on a fully custom psp case for your zero project and a variation for a Pi3.
    We just need sth to work around with. Providing the measurements of your latest custom pcb would help a lot.
    Greetings from Germany

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