The PSPi 1000 Version 2.1 Kits are available, so this page is here to show the assembly process. The video shows the assembly, and the written section provides an overview of what is being done and why it is being done
Part 2 is up. Again, a lot of this was in the rough cut so it won’t be anything new to some of you. Part 3 is all new stuff. Working on it now.
Part 1 is up. This probably won’t help you guys that soldered the module up already. I’m working on Part 2 now.
Still editing. Figured this might help some of you. I’ve got about 10 hours of video I’m condensing down. This might take a little while.
I’ve put a diagram together so you guys have an idea of how to progress. The blue circled connections go to any available green GPIO pin other than 13 and 18, since they are used for audio. If something isn’t clear please let me know.
The Process – Most recent update 2/16/17
Before You Begin: This is important and will prevent a future headache
Before you solder anything, you should take a few minutes to verify that your controls work. What I mean by this is plugging your PSP’s FPC-10 cable into the FPC-10 Breakout Board, and make sure that the Up pin connects to the Up pad on the PSP’s small D-pad board (you should get 200 ohms or less for most of the connections), Down on the board connects to Down on the PSPs board, etc. Do the same for all the right-side FPC-24 controls(x, square, on switch, LEDs, etc). It’s better to discover issues now than to find them after everything is soldered up. It only takes a few minutes. I test these before shipping them, but they are hand-made and I’m still only human. This will also help you to know whether your PSP’s buttons and connections are working like they should. The Green LED won’t show a connection because it connects through a mosfet, and the mosfet won’t be enabled without power to the board. All the others should show a connection.
Part 1 – Lithium Module and Power Wires
Install the lithium power module (charge, protection, boost) board on the left side of the case. Some small plastic pieces will need to be removed so it sits into place. This is a good time to solder the LED indication and possibly the power in/out wires to the power module. There will be three indication wires (power on, charging, fully charged) that will lead to the FPC-24 board later on. There will be two wires for power in, two wires for power out, and two wires for battery. These should be the heavier gage wires, since they carry power. Next you can hot glue the power module down, making sure not to get glue on the memory stick slot and cover if you plan to use that later for the microSD card.
Solder the power input wires to the power jack leads, making sure the polarity is correct. The center pin is positive. Route the battery wires to the battery compartment, making sure to leave some extra length.
Part 2 – Audio, SD Card, and FPC-24 Preparation
Solder wires to each of the audio jack’s 4 connections and secure the jack into place. These wires will be used later.
Line up the SD to microSD adapter so that the groove matches up to the position of the microSD slot. This will make the card easier to push in and pull out. Secure the adapter into place while making sure you don’t accidentally glue the door.
Solder small wires to the pins or pads (new version has both pins and pads) on the FPC-24 board. It’s up to you what pads to solder to, but the minimum is the ground, power switch, and the controls.