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rutledge.allen.l
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11/01/2017 4:02 am  

I can't wait for this. I have the PSP, ordered the 100.2.1  Kit, have the Raspberry pi zero 1.3 kit, and ordered the screen. Anything else required? 

To prep for the soldering work, I have been practicing on a "Learn to Solder" kit from Fry's.  Will make sure to update this as the project progresses. 


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othermod
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11/01/2017 4:30 am  

Sounds like you have it all. Was a microSD card and SD to microSD adapter included in the Pi Zero kit? 


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rutledge.allen.l
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11/01/2017 4:43 am  

Yes, 8 Gig Card and adapter. Will swap it for a 32. What is it using for software? Can I pull retropie ?


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rutledge.allen.l
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11/01/2017 9:41 am  

Still have about a week before the lid and kit come in but wanted to make some progress. Went ahead and did the PSP tear down. Looks like someone else has been in here and forgot some of the screws. A good amount were missing. I used this tutorial as well as this one ( https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/PSP+1000+Teardown/1234) and got it apart. Did have a snag on the back panel and chipped out some of the black plastic. Will keep an eye online for a replacement. Everything else came out smooth.

Edited: 4 months  ago

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rutledge.allen.l
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16/01/2017 12:07 pm  

Ok a bit impatient in the lcd. No shipping number so checking everyday. Anyways, I got the ports off the power board and started putting together. I used the video tutorial and the Teardown from the website. They do differ a little so hopefully haven't screwed something up. 

Edited: 3 months  ago

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rutledge.allen.l
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16/01/2017 12:08 pm  
Edited: 3 months  ago

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rutledge.allen.l
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16/01/2017 12:08 pm  
Edited: 3 months  ago

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rutledge.allen.l
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16/01/2017 12:11 pm  

Called it a night. Tomorrow going to borrow a friendsmall multimeter to make sure power is up correctly. Then I'll do the SD. I checked the dpad fit and appears the SD reader went slanted so I sandpapered the bottom lip and mow.fits perfectly.I know the soldering is bad but not to bad for someone who has never soldered prior to 2 weeks ago. Hope the screen comes in. I am anxious to continue.


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trickluvdakid
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17/01/2017 8:49 am  

Waiting on the same LCD on Jan 4. I've ordered everything I need, and the LCD is the only thing that wasn't provided with a tracking number. I'll keep ya posted when mine arrives.


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othermod
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17/01/2017 9:26 am  

If you ordered the one I linked to, they usually take about 3 weeks.


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rutledge.allen.l
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17/01/2017 11:59 am  

Awesome. I reached out to the company, they said 15 to 35 days. Hopefully closer to 15 ;).  Today I got the right side and left side controls wired up. On the right side, I couldn't quite make out the ones the video had used (fpc 24). I ended up doing o, x, square, triangle, start select, one switch, volume up and down, and right trigger. Is the orange and green the lcd lines coming off the power?


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othermod
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17/01/2017 6:29 pm  

Hope this helps. The blue circled connections go to any available green GPIO pin other than 13 and 18, since they are used for audio.

Edited: 3 months  ago

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rutledge.allen.l
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18/01/2017 11:48 pm  

This will help a ton! I got the AMP wired up as well as the FPCs. My rookie soldering skills did cause a problem on the SD card. The plastic melted a bit so had the 1 & 2 pin touching. (Verified with multimeter) I cleaned it up best I could but had some more melting :(. Having already glued the SD Card in, it would be a chore to replace it. I am set to buy the v3 once it comes in so will just move forward with this and give it a shot. Finger crossed. 


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othermod
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19/01/2017 12:00 am  

Yeah the most important thing is to make sure no other pads are touching. That would ruin your day. A blow drier or heat gun might soften the hot glue enough to remove the adapter if you decide to.

Or, you can always just install the microSD card directly into the Pi Zero if you think the adapter is toast. It won't be as easy to remove, but hey, it will work.


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trickluvdakid
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26/01/2017 10:42 am  

Ok, I ordered my LCD (same one from the link) on Jan 4th and it arrived yesterday, Jan 25th. All of the small parts I've ordered have been about 1 1/2 weeks. The larger stuff (ie. case) has been about 3 weeks. (All items shipped from China).

 


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rutledge.allen.l
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26/01/2017 9:48 pm  

Sweet!! I keep checking the mail everyday for it!  Side note is there any update on video part 2? Even if unedited, it helped a lot. 


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rutledge.allen.l
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27/01/2017 10:40 am  

The screen came in. Little confused which is the buck that need removed. Neither have 1509 on them..

Edited: 3 months  ago

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othermod
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27/01/2017 5:37 pm  

It appears they did a redesign on the board. I have 4 on the way, so I'll be dealing with this too. I can't quite make out the lettering on the two chips, so is there any way you can either get a closer pic of them or tell me what they say?

Have you tried hooking it up to see whether it works without removing the regulator. If it works, then the board will run a little less efficiently.


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rutledge.allen.l
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27/01/2017 7:14 pm  

Sure. So the one closest to the power  says "MR 25Q40ANG 1623"  the other says "Jw5022 6P365CF"

Edited: 3 months  ago

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rutledge.allen.l
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27/01/2017 7:15 pm  

Here's the other

Edited: 3 months  ago

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othermod
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27/01/2017 8:55 pm  

Ok I did some research. It's the JW5022. I'm a little surprised by this one. It's really good and super efficient. You might not need to remove it. It really just depends on how much of a voltage drop the component creates.

http://wenku.baidu.com/view/7242e146b9f3f90f76c61bd0.html


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rutledge.allen.l
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27/01/2017 9:40 pm  

Awesome. I'll wire it up as is and see. Thanks again.


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trickluvdakid
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27/01/2017 11:49 pm  

I'll be starting mine on Sunday.  Let you know what I see when I tear it apart.


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rutledge.allen.l
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28/01/2017 9:57 am  

You may beat me to it. PAX South is this weekend so will be attending that.


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rutledge.allen.l
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29/01/2017 12:44 am  

Was wiring everything up and realized that I didn't have a power switch. What are people using? What was used in the video? (Store or Amazon link?)


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othermod
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29/01/2017 1:52 am  

We're using the original switch that's on the PSP's right control board.


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rutledge.allen.l
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29/01/2017 3:12 am  

 Ok. So made a boo-boo on the fpc24. Drop some soldering in it and couldn't clean it out. 😣. I ordered another and did some small stuff in the mean time. Got the batteries knocked out, and followed the wiring diagram for the power and ground on the boards. I also wired up the SD to the pi. I did have the wires super long on everything so was trimming down.

Edited: 3 months  ago

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rutledge.allen.l
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29/01/2017 3:12 am  

Batteries

Edited: 3 months  ago

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rutledge.allen.l
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29/01/2017 3:13 am  

Oops - Rookie!

Edited: 3 months  ago

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rutledge.allen.l
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29/01/2017 3:14 am  

SD done. When we get home tonight I'll plug in the pi and test the SD reader. 

Edited: 3 months  ago

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othermod
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29/01/2017 3:18 am  

I've made some changes to the new version of the FPC-24, so you can more easily solder to the pads on the bottom instead of using the holes. Might help prevent issues like this in the future.


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rutledge.allen.l
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Joined: 4 months  ago
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29/01/2017 3:24 am  

**tip**

Get familair with tinning the soldering tip. Being one that is not familiar with soldering, I just jumped into this but am learning how much easier it is. Still haven't got it down 100% but do take the time and look it up if you'really new to soldering. Save your selves the melted parts/wires and burnt fingers 🙂


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othermod
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29/01/2017 3:26 am  

A wet sponge for the soldering iron tip helps a ton


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spacemonkey
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29/01/2017 4:51 am  

Steel sponge works well also.


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rutledge.allen.l
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29/01/2017 12:55 pm  

While I did mess up the fodder 24 and need to wait for another, I plugged the pi in to test the sd.. it works!

Edited: 3 months  ago

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rutledge.allen.l
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31/01/2017 11:18 am  

Ok new fpc came in. Love the new design. Made it so much easier. Also grabbed some solder and new tips for my iron. Tinned the tip and went to work. Wired up the new fpc24 and made sure power/grounds were good according to the image. Then did a quick test fit. Everything is lining up closely. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel! The lDC sits tight but I think it'll work. Anyone have any suggestions to the GPIO layout? A diagram would be really useful to us noobs. Going to hit the Google.

Edited: 3 months  ago

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rutledge.allen.l
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31/01/2017 11:18 am  
Edited: 3 months  ago

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rutledge.allen.l
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31/01/2017 11:18 am  
Edited: 3 months  ago

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othermod
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31/01/2017 7:21 pm  

I don't have a diagram because I use different GPIO pins on every build. Most of the GPIO pins function the same, so I just use whatever pins are easiest and tweak the software once I'm done soldering so it looks for the commands on the right pin.


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rutledge.allen.l
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Joined: 4 months  ago
Posts: 42
01/02/2017 1:49 pm  

SO put some time on this. No luck though. Screen wouldn't kick on and or pi power up. Did some tests and looks like no power was leaving the LED so I pulled it out. Still nada. I then went ahead and wired the screen up to the pi and plugged it into the wall outlet. Pi fires up but screen still dead. Multimeter confirms 5V going into it.


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rutledge.allen.l
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01/02/2017 1:57 pm  

Alos forgive the noob questions
So I popped out the multimeter to see whats going on. I have 5.07 coming off the charger and going into the power module. However all hot lines leaving it are only at .47. I wonder if I set this up properly.


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othermod
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01/02/2017 5:36 pm  

Alright you've got a couple different things going on. The module should be outputting 5.0-5.1v, so you might have a short somewhere. Let's isolate that from everything for a bit. Do you get any indication lights on the module when it's being charged or when you attempt to draw power from it?

I'm curious about this LCD. When testing it, did you have it powered by the same 5v power source that was powering the Pi? A picture would help me a lot. I bought some new software for the forum, so it should be much easier to upload and display images now.


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rutledge.allen.l
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01/02/2017 7:33 pm  

I don't have the batteries wired in yet. Just wanted to make sure that's called out. Ok I do get a red light on the module. I wired up the power button and get a brief blue when clicking it on. For the lcd, I originally had a red 5+ coming off the amp. On first pass with nothing working, I popped it off. When I plugged the pi power in and noticed 5v, I then wired it directly to the pi (p1 and p6 I believe) with the v1 yellow going to TV.  With this setup I checked power and verified 5v going into the lcd but no turn on. The pi is on cause I see the green light come on and stay. 

I keep getting "Error - internal server error" when attempting to load pics

Edited: 3 months  ago

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othermod
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01/02/2017 7:51 pm  

Ok, yea the batteries need to be wired up before this module will work correctly (it might work somewhat, but not reliably). The module will have a steady blue light when it's powering something.

Also, if you have the on/off board wired between the module and the Pi, and you're pressing the button to turn it on, it will only power on for a second or two if the on/off board's TX pin is not connected to a positive voltage.

As far as the LCD...if you're using the same 5v and GND from the Pi's pads (and you have the polarity right), then the buck converter is probably to blame. I'll do some research.

 


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rutledge.allen.l
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01/02/2017 8:11 pm  

Got ya. When I get home I am thinking to do a tear down and then rebuild. Pretty sure I can clean it up alot now that I have an idea what to expect.


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trickluvdakid
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02/02/2017 12:53 am  

Pulled the back off of the LCD I ordered.  Completely different.  I did use the link that you have on your store page, so I'm guessing you will have the same look when your parts arrive.

The Yellow one is JW5022S

The Pink one is 25C4006E    M1I-12G


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othermod
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02/02/2017 12:59 am  
Posted by: trickluvdakid

 

Pulled the back off of the LCD I ordered.  Completely different.  I did use the link that you have on your store page, so I'm guessing you will have the same look when your parts arrive.

The Yellow one is JW5022S

The Pink one is 25C4006E    M1I-12G

   

Ok so both of you got the same one. I ordered a bunch of them, so yea I assume I'll be getting the same. Have you tried powering it off 5v yet?


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trickluvdakid
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02/02/2017 1:28 am  

Not yet.  If not tomorrow, I will this weekend.

I did notice the same regulator, but the boards that Allen and I ordered were different.  Thought that was odd.


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rutledge.allen.l
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02/02/2017 2:30 am  

I'll give it a shot tonight. So to be clear. I pop out the JW5022 buck converter and run a 5v+ into Pin 2 (VIN 2 -  http://wenku.baidu.com/view/7242e146b9f3f90f76c61bd0.html - the one immediately under the little circle on the the top). Just being careful, don't want the month wait if I bork it. 


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othermod
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02/02/2017 2:43 am  
Posted by: rutledge.allen.l

 

I'll give it a shot tonight. So to be clear. I pop out the JW5022 buck converter and run a 5v+ into Pin 2 (VIN 2 -  http://wenku.baidu.com/view/7242e146b9f3f90f76c61bd0.html - the one immediately under the little circle on the the top). Just being careful, don't want the month wait if I bork it. 

   

If you hang tight for an hour or two I'll figure out this schematic and let ya know. It might be simpler than that. I'm also trying to verify that it's bucking to 5v and not 3.3v.

Edited: 3 months  ago

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